COSMETIC INGREDIENTS WE AVOID

Almost all cosmetics from the drugstore, perfumery, specialty store and supermarket unfortunately contain several synthetic and often harmful substances. Even when you think something is completely natural, it often still could contain these substances. The word natural is not protected and therefore cosmetic brands can say the product is natural, while it could contain for example just a few natural ingredients and the rest is supplemented with cheap synthetic chemicals.

Your skin is the largest absorption organ, why should you use something that could be harmful for your health? Depending on the ingredient, this can be (partly) absorbed and get into your body through the skin. Some ingredients are "just" endocrine disruptors, while others can be a lot more harmful. It’s a no brainer, many of these ingredients are bad for your health and the world around us.

The golden rule of thumb is: if you can’t eat it, just don’t put it on your skin.

But how do you know which ingredient is harmful or not and how to read a label?

That’s why we’ve made a checklist with ingredients we don’t use in our products (and the ones you should avoid as well). And yes, science do back it up by the way.

Microplastics aka microbeads

Microplastics are tiny plastic particles (< 5 mm) that are added to cosmetics and personal care products. They’re often used as emulsifying agents or as cheap fillers.

Examples are rinse-off, scrubbing and peeling products but also sun-care, make-up, shampoo, hand-sanitizers and even toothpaste.

They flow straight into wastewater and contribute to the “Plastic Soup” swirling around our oceans where marine life and birds mistake microplastics for food.

https://www.ec.gc.ca/ese-ees/ADDA4C5F-F397-48D5-AD17-63F989EBD0E5/Microbeads_Science%20Summary_EN.pdf

https://wedocs.unep.org/bitstream/handle/20.500.11822/9664/-Plastic_in_cosmetics_Are_we_polluting_the_environment_through_our_personal_care_-2015Plas.pdf

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1382668918305635

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/abs/pii/S0269749113005642

Parabens (methylparaben, isobutylparaben and propylparaben), preservatives which has been used to prevent the growth of bacteria, often found in facial cleansers, foundation, body washes, lotions and antiperspirant. Linked to endocrine disruption, can upset the hormonal balance and worse, have been found in human breast tissue according to the journal of applied toxicology. 

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4977060/

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/14745841

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0041008X98985441

Sodium Lauryl Sulphate (SLS), an aggressive, cheap and synthetic cleanser and emulsifier that is widely used in skin and hair care products such as shampoo, hand soap, toothpaste and body wash. It provides the foaming and cleansing effect. It can cause rashes, eye irritations, hair loss and allergic reactions and has a drying effect on the skin.

https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.3109/10915818309142005  

Sodium Laureth Sulphate (SLES) based on SLS with addition of ethylene oxide and is otherwise the same as described with SLS.

https://journals.sagepub.com/doi/pdf/10.3109/10915818309142005  

DEA (diethanolamine) ammonia based compound, used as emulsifier and foaming agent. Found in shampoo, conditioners, soap, lotion, shaving cream, makeup, hair dye, liquid detergent, dishwashing liquid and sun screen. It is dangerous and toxic, irritates the skin, mucous membranes and eyes, and can cause contact dermatitis and allergies. In addition, it could be harmful to the liver, kidneys and pancreas. And last but not least it pollutes the environment. There are also many variants such as TEA, MEA and NDEA that can disrupt the hormone balance, cause irritation to the eyes and dry out the skin.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC1665417/ https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/23696577  

PEG’s (polyethylene glycol / polyether glycol) / propylene glycol), synthetic composition of ethylene glycol particles, derived from petroleum. The whole PEG family is numbered and the number indicates the number of ethylene glycol units. These substances can act as a conductor of harmful substances, affect the natural moisture balance of the skin, which can lead to premature skin aging and make the skin more vulnerable to bacteria. PEG ingredients can develop 1.4 dioxane during the manufacturing process. (1.4 dioxane is an undesirable by-product of the processing method extholyxaton which is carcinogenic).

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/11417628  https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4505343/ https://pubmed.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/11417628/ http://www.ivm.vu.nl/en/Images/Plastic_ingredients_in_Cosmetics_072014_FINAL_tcm234-409859.pdf  

Phthalates (synonyms are also called DEHP, DINP, DEP and DBP), are salts or esters of phtalic acid and are used in cosmetics to soften the skin, melt or dissolve ingredients and to keep nail polish flexible after it has dried. The most common one DEP (diethyl phthalate) is often found in nail polish, fragrance and perfume. May cause serious damage to the endocrine system and reproductive organs and may also be carcinogenic.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4977060/

Phenoxyethanol, known as a potential irritant and used as a synthetic preservative. In the EU this substance is only allowed in low doses (up to max. 1%). Some studies suspect disturbances of the nervous system Besides, it has a very drying effect on the skin because it has a degreasing effect and therefore gives a great chance of skin irritation and allergies.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4977060/   

Butylated hydroxyanisole (BHA) and Butylated hydroxytoluene (BHT), used as a preservative, it’s an antioxidant and is recognizable by a typical odor. Often contained in lipstick, makeup, hair products, perfume and cosmetics. May cause contact allergy, skin irritation and allergic reactions, and may be endocrine disruptive.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0160412019302922 https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/12396675  

Sodium Coco Sulphate, seems harmless because the origin of coconut is and it would be milder than SLS, but it’s quite similar to as SLS but just processed in a different way. Unfortunately, the disadvantages of SLS and SLES also apply to this ingredient, despite the slightly milder form. https://www.researchgate.net/publication/331789745_Sodium_Lauryl_Sulfate_vs_Sodium_Coco_Sulfate_Study_of_the_Safety_of_Use_Anionic_Surfactants_with_Respect_to_Their_Interaction_with_the_Skin     

Perfume, a blend of mostly synthetic and natural fragrances that need not be mentioned because the perfume industry uses the trade secret. A perfume can be composed mainly of toxic and dangerous petrochemicals (extracted from petroleum) and can consist of more than 5,000 separate ingredients, of which only a few hundred have a natural source. May cause nausea, asthma, migraine, hormone disruptions, skin irritation, and contact dermatitis, and may also be carcinogenic.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3018511/ https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0160412017302143 https://www.sciencedirect.com/topics/earth-and-planetary-sciences/phthalates https://d36rd3gki5z3d3.cloudfront.net/wp-content/uploads/2016/01/FragranceReport.pdf   

Mineral oil, collective name for a mix of refined liquid hydrocarbons such as, for example, petroleum (petrolatum) and paraffin. These substances are obtained from petroleum and, after purification, are widely used in cosmetics. Because mineral oil forms a film over the skin, it can clog pores, disrupt moisture balance and eliminate toxins. In addition, mineral oil is not readily biodegradable.

https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S0022202X15342160  

Nanoparticles, very small particles (1-100 nanometers) that are capable to penetrate deep into the skin. Most commonly used in sunscreen, cosmetics and makeup. At the moment there is still a lot of uncertainty about nanoparticles, it cannot yet be claimed that nanoparticles are 100% safe. Regulations require adding the word NANO to ingredients measuring less than 100 nm. When inhaled, the lungs can be affected and (depending on the size) they can enter the skin through the pores and could damage the liver and kidneys through the bloodstream. 

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/26447850  https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC3425166/  https://www.researchgate.net/publication/333713961_Skin_toxicity_of_topically_applied_nanoparticles   

Triclosan, synthetic active ingredient, preservative and antibacterial agents, usually found in cosmetics, hand soap, deodorant, toothpaste, mouth wash and antiperspirants. It prevents bacteria on the skin. May disturb the hormone system and the immune system and cause contact allergy. In addition, it is not biodegradable and therefore very harmful to the environment, especially to aquatic organisms.

https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4454990/  https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC4977060/

Silicons, derived from natural sources like silica, which is the main component of sand. Seen the extensive chemical processing (which leaves a huge ecological footprint), the end product is not natural at all. It’s ultimately synthetic. 

Silicons are used in hair- en skincare products to improve the skin-feel (like silk), to prevent water-loss by creating a barrier and give a soft, smooth finish. In short, they are difficult to biodegrade adn they pollute the environment by flowing into wastewater and may not break down. FYI; any ingredient that ends with -cone or -siloxane is a silicone.

Common names for silicons in cosmetics are:

Dimethicone

Cyclomethicone

Cyclohexasiloxane

Cetearyl methicone

Cyclopentasiloxane

https://ec.europa.eu/health/scientific_committees/consumer_safety/docs/sccs_o_029.pdf